The steep fell above the town. Which way round to walk it, every awkward turn pinned, and an honest account of a day with no view at the top.
The honest version
Wansfell Pike is the steep fell that stands directly over Ambleside. We walked it on Friday 2 October 2026, Ellie, Cass and me, from the Square in Ambleside to Waterhead on Windermere: 5.4 miles, about 430 m of climbing, and 3 hours 15 minutes including the Stock Ghyll Force loop and the photo stops.
It did not go to plan for the view. The top was in cloud, with a very harsh wind and rain, and we saw Windermere only below the cloud. One thing went right: we had phone signal all the way round, including on top of Wansfell Pike, which is handy for walkers and good for safety. That was one day on our phones, so treat it as encouraging, not as a promise. I have written the walk as it was, because the awkward turns are pinned and the weather is part of the advice.
If you only do one thing: choose your direction before you set off. From Ambleside the climb is very steep and you finish at Waterhead. From Waterhead it is a gentler climb and a steep descent into Ambleside. The choice is just below.
Before you set off
Choose which one you want. We walked it from Ambleside, so that is the route described step by step below. The Waterhead version is the same route in reverse.
A very steep climb, a long easy descent, and you finish at Waterhead. You start at the Square and can take in the Stock Ghyll Force loop on the way. The route, step by step.
More of a stroll up a hill, then a steep descent into the middle of Ambleside. The climb is still a climb, but it is less steep. The directions, reversed.
Say this plainly
Wansfell has two tops. The well-known one is Wansfell Pike, 482 m. The highest point of the fell is Baystones, about a kilometre to the north-east and a few metres higher: sources give 487 or 488 m. Wainwright's “Wansfell” summit is Baystones, not the Pike.
We reached the Pike and did not go on to Baystones. There was poor visibility, a very harsh wind and rain, and we could not see the higher point. The path from Ambleside delivers you to the Pike, and most walkers take it for the very top. It is not. Published descriptions say the top of the Pike has no cairn and is reached through a gate.
Wainwright baggers
The tick for Wansfell is Baystones. Our walk stops at the Pike, so everything first-hand on this page stops there too.
The walk as we did it
The times are from my photographs and voice notes. Every what3words address is one of my own pins, and each one marks a point where it is easy to go wrong.
We started in the Square in the middle of Ambleside and walked up through Stockghyll Woods, 30 minutes to the top viewing point with photo stops. It has its own page: Stock Ghyll Force. The way up past the falls is an extremely steep climb up steps.
Do not go back down to the bottom of the woods and up the main road, which is what the route we were following wanted. At the top viewing point, cross the ladder stile over the wall, towards the Grove Barn café sign. Go up the hill and turn left onto the tarmac path.
A stone step stile, then a gate in a wall, and then the pitched path starts. Published descriptions match our photographs: stone steps on the right of Stockghyll Lane, a little above a cattle grid, lead to a stile signed for Troutbeck via Wansfell Pike. The path climbs the field beside a beck to a gate, and the pitched path starts beyond it.


A pitched stone path, steep all the way, with Ambleside dropping away behind you. It was a climb in cloud and mist. Near the top there is a stone step stile in a wall. I can't tell you more exactly where it sits.






We were on the Pike at about 15:00 in low cloud, with a very harsh wind and rain. I have no photograph of the summit itself. Windermere showed to the south, below the cloud. We still had phone signal on the top. Why the Pike is not the true top.



Go through the gate and immediately turn right. Do not go straight on.


A gate with a ladder stile beside it. A flagged path beside a wall leads to it from gate 1.


Right goes over the top of a little waterfall. Left goes up to a gate. Take the left, up to the gate.


A slate sign in the wall points left to the Old Post Office tearoom: 10 minutes at a jog, 15 minutes' walk. The route turns right, through the gate, signed for Ambleside. A sign here warns of cows with calves in the field, so dogs go on leads from this gate. According to published descriptions, the lane you have been following is the Hundreds Road, and it meets Robin Lane here, where the way to Ambleside is a signed sharp turn back to the right.




You walk through a farm and it feels like walking through someone's garden. At the end there is a five-bar gate on the left: do not go through it. Take the gap on the right and go up the pathway. You are in the woods straight away. The farm is High Skelghyll, according to published descriptions and our recorded track.


Turn left for Waterhead. Carrying straight on still takes you to Ambleside; it is just a different finish. In Skelghyll Wood a short signed detour leads to the Jenkin Crag viewpoint, which is also written Jenkyn's Crag or Jenkins Crag. We did not take it, so I have nothing first-hand to add.
You come out down stone steps onto the A591. The path is signed only “Public Footpath”, but it is the one that goes up the fell. You can start the walk here instead. The climb from this end is still a climb, but less steep.




The other way round
We walked from Ambleside only. These are the same directions reversed, built from our pins rather than from memory, so trust the pins over any left or right.
Troutbeck is the other side of the fell. The lane that goes straight on at the slate-sign gate goes down to Troutbeck, and published routes reach the Pike from there. We did not walk to Troutbeck, so I will not describe it.
The late choice
At the woodland junction (step 11, ///rats.symphonic.commended) we turned left for Waterhead. Carrying straight on still takes you to Ambleside; it is just a different finish. If you would rather end in the town, that is the choice to make.
If you finish at Waterhead, you can walk back to the centre of Ambleside easily. The well-known circular carries on to Troutbeck, and we did not walk it.
Refuel
Check before visiting any of these. We did not visit the first two, so we say only where they are.
Off the route: the slate sign at the gate (step 9) points left to it, 15 minutes' walk. It is trading under that name. We did not go, so check before visiting.
Off the route above Stock Ghyll: 600 m over the ladder stile at the top of the falls (step 2). We did not go in. Check before visiting.
Nearest pub / refuel at the finish. It is where we stayed. Check before visiting.
Getting there
There is no car park on the fell. You park in Ambleside and walk up, or at Waterhead if you start there. We stayed at Waterhead and walked from the Square, so these options come from our other pages: check the signs on the day.
For the Ambleside start, see the options on our Stock Ghyll Force page: the pay and display car park on the A591 above the town, or the laybys on Stockghyll Lane, signed for a parking disc and a time limit.
For the Waterhead start, Waterhead car park (LA22 0ES) is a pay car park by the lake. See our Ambleside Roman Fort guide.
The Square in Ambleside is the start we used, and Waterhead is an easy walk from the centre. Our Ambleside guide covers the town.
The National Trust lists buses 555 and 599 to Waterhead. Check the Stagecoach timetables before you rely on either.
Weather
We had no view at the top. There was rain and a harsh wind on the Pike, low cloud, and it was clearer below the cloud. The top is exposed, so dress for it rather than for Ambleside. We had phone signal there and all the way round, but do not let that replace a map, warm layers and a plan. Check the Lake District Weatherline before you go, and if the top is in cloud, you may prefer to wait for a clear day.


Common questions