Castle Crag
The only Wainwright under 1,000 feet, rising sharply out of the Jaws of Borrowdale. A short but steep climb to a summit with one of the finest valley views in the Lakes — and Millican Dalton's old cave nearby.
Climb Castle Crag
Ancient oakwoods, the River Derwent, the Bowder Stone and Castle Crag — the classic Borrowdale valley, running south from Derwentwater on the B5289.
Northern Lakes · remote green valley
Borrowdale is a valley in the north-western Lake District, running south from the foot of Derwentwater near Keswick up to the Honister Pass, threaded for its whole length by the single B5289 road. It is one of the greenest, most enclosed valleys in the National Park — a place of oak woodland, river meanders and crag-and-hamlet scenery, holding some of England's rarest temperate rainforest. People come to Borrowdale to walk (Castle Crag, the Jaws of Borrowdale, Watendlath), to see the Bowder Stone and Ashness Bridge, and to base themselves in the quiet hamlets of Grange, Rosthwaite, Stonethwaite and Seatoller.
The borrowdale valley feels different from the busier southern lakes. There is no town here — just a string of farming hamlets, a handful of pubs and tea-stops, drystone walls, and the River Derwent winding down towards Keswick. Halfway along, the crags close in at the famous Jaws of Borrowdale, where the road and river squeeze through a rocky gap before the valley opens out again around Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite. Above it all rise fells that link Borrowdale to Catbells, Haystacks and, over Honister, Buttermere.
(This is the Borrowdale near Keswick — not the other, smaller Borrowdale near Shap in old Westmorland.)
Map
The valley spine runs Grange → Bowder Stone → Rosthwaite → Stonethwaite → Seatoller → Honister, with Ashness Bridge, Surprise View and Watendlath up on the eastern fell road.
Interactive map © OpenStreetMap contributors — tap a pin for the place and its guide. Pin positions are approximate; tell us if any need nudging.
The landmarks
The valley's best-known sights, from the balanced Bowder Stone to the hidden tarn at Watendlath — most within a few minutes of the B5289.
The only Wainwright under 1,000 feet, rising sharply out of the Jaws of Borrowdale. A short but steep climb to a summit with one of the finest valley views in the Lakes — and Millican Dalton's old cave nearby.
Climb Castle CragA vast balanced boulder marooned on the valley floor, with a wooden ladder to the top. One of Borrowdale's oldest visitor attractions and an easy walk from the road.
Visit the Bowder StoneUp the narrow eastern fell road: Ashness Bridge, the most photographed packhorse bridge in the Lakes, and the Surprise View — a sudden, sweeping outlook down over Derwentwater to Skiddaw.
Ashness Bridge & Surprise ViewA tiny National Trust hamlet gathered around a tarn, reached by the single-track road past Ashness Bridge or on foot from Rosthwaite. One of the quietest, most complete corners of Borrowdale.
Explore WatendlathOn the flanks of Castle Crag is the old quarry cave where the eccentric "Professor of Adventure" Millican Dalton lived for many summers. It features in our Lake District caves guide.
See the caves guideNear the foot of the valley, the Lodore Falls tumble through woodland after heavy rain — immortalised by the poet Robert Southey. Covered in our Lake District waterfalls guide.
See the waterfalls guideAt the valley's foot, the Keswick Launch calls at jetties around Derwentwater, letting you combine a boat trip with a Borrowdale walk. Details sit with our Keswick hub.
Derwentwater & Keswick
The differentiator
Borrowdale is one of the wettest valleys in England, and that rain grows something rare. The valley's ancient Atlantic oakwoods are a genuine fragment of temperate rainforest — dripping, deeply mossed, hung with lichens and ferns, the kind of damp, green woodland that once fringed the whole western coast of Britain and now survives only in scattered pockets. Borrowdale holds some of the best of what is left in England.
In recognition of that, the valley's woods now form the Borrowdale Rainforest National Nature Reserve — a 721-hectare stretch of internationally important Atlantic oakwood cared for by the National Trust. The best-known fragments include Johnny Wood, above Rosthwaite behind the YHA — a Site of Special Scientific Interest of gnarled sessile oak famed for its rare mosses and liverworts — and Seatoller Wood near the head of the valley. These are working, living woods rather than a manicured attraction: boulders under a carpet of moss, the river never far away.
Walk quietly, keep to the paths where they exist, and give the mosses and saplings room to recover — this is fragile habitat as much as it is scenery.
On foot
Borrowdale is one of the great walking valleys — everything from gentle riverside strolls to fell circuits. Many of the best routes are circular, starting and finishing in a hamlet. Take OS Explorer OL4 and check the forecast before you head up.
A short but steep climb to the only Wainwright under 1,000 ft, usually done as a circular from Grange or Rosthwaite through the Jaws of Borrowdale. Big views for modest height.
Castle Crag walkFrom the Bowder Stone, a mile of road down to Rosthwaite, then back north along the River Derwent to Grange through the wooded gorge — 5.72 miles, low level, with a cave, an abandoned quarry and river swimming on the way. Full step-by-step route, including the fork most people get wrong.
The full routeA well-loved circular from Rosthwaite over the fell to the tarn hamlet of Watendlath and back down past Ashness — moderate, and one of the finest half-day walks in Borrowdale.
Watendlath pageEasy, flat riverside walking from Grange along the Derwent — perfect for families and anyone wanting scenery without a climb. Cross the double-arched Grange Bridge to make a short loop.
Link the hamlets on the flat: Grange, Rosthwaite, Stonethwaite and Seatoller are joined by field and woodland paths, letting you build gentle circulars of almost any length along the valley floor.
Beyond the valley, Borrowdale's fells connect to Catbells, Haystacks and the routes over Honister to Buttermere. Browse the full collection in our walks guide.
All Lake District walksShort walks from Grange
Grange is the easiest base for short, gentle walks. From the village you can stroll the riverside path into the Jaws of Borrowdale, cross the old Grange Bridge, and follow low-level tracks towards the Bowder Stone. These can be walked out-and-back or joined into an easy circular that returns along the Derwent — no big ascent required. For exact distances and timings, plan from OS Explorer OL4 (The English Lakes — North-western area).
Where to base yourself
Four small hamlets strung along the valley floor, each a good starting point for walks. There is no town in Borrowdale — this is farming and fell country.
The first hamlet as you come south from Keswick, sitting where the River Derwent is crossed by its handsome double-arched Grange Bridge. Grange is the natural base for easy riverside walks and the entrance to the Jaws of Borrowdale, and it's home to the well-liked Grange Café (Grange View, CA12 5XA) — a cash tea-room usually open from mid-morning; find it on Facebook.
The principal hamlet of the valley and its walking hub, sitting on the flat below Castle Crag. Rosthwaite is home to the Royal Oak — a 1750s former farm and miners' tavern, now a 23-bedroom hotel and restaurant that reopened under new owners after a major refurbishment — a long-standing walkers' inn at the heart of the village.
Rosthwaite sits around postcode CA12 5XB and has a National Trust car park (free for members). For a wider choice of shops, Keswick is the nearest town.
Visit the Royal Oak, Rosthwaite
The last hamlet before the road climbs to Honister, and the terminus of the 78 bus. Seatoller is a cluster of old stone houses at the foot of the pass, a handy start for walks into the head of the valley and towards the Honister fells — with Honister Slate Mine, England's last working slate mine and now England's longest zip wire, at the summit above. There's a National Trust car park here (free for members), and — a real bonus at this end of the valley — The Yew Tree, a restored 1628 inn serving hearty homecooked food, with a riverside beer garden.
A quiet side-valley hamlet just off the main road, reached down a no-through lane. Stonethwaite sits at the mouth of its own beck and is a peaceful starting point for walks up towards Greenup and Langstrath — and has its own walkers' pub, the Langstrath Country Inn. Borrowdale also has a strong fell-running tradition — the Borrowdale Fell Race is run from Rosthwaite in summer.
Stonethwaite is also the starting point for two of the Lakes’ best-known wild swims: the pools at Galleny Force, about halfway up Langstrath, and the deep jumping channel of Black Moss Pot further up the valley — roughly 45 minutes’ walk from the village. Both are covered, with safety notes, in our wild swimming guide.
Getting here
The 78 bus runs from Keswick into the valley, calling at Grange, Rosthwaite and Seatoller. Because parking in Borrowdale is limited and the valley road is narrow, the 78 is genuinely the easiest way to visit — you can ride in, walk between hamlets or up a fell, and catch a later bus back. It also makes a range of one-way, hamlet-to-hamlet walks possible without a car. Check the current timetable before you travel; frequency varies by season.
By car, Borrowdale is reached from Keswick on the B5289, the single road that threads the whole valley south towards Honister. It is scenic but narrow in places, especially through the Jaws of Borrowdale and on the fell road up to Ashness and Watendlath.
Eat, drink & stay
Options in the valley are limited and fill fast in season — book ahead, especially the pubs with rooms.
A 1750s former farm and miners' tavern in the heart of Rosthwaite, reopened under new owners after a major refurbishment — now a 23-bedroom hotel and restaurant, and still very much a walkers' inn.
royaloakhotel.co.ukA youth hostel in the valley (beside Johnny Wood), popular with walkers and groups as an affordable base for Borrowdale and the surrounding fells.
Book via YHAA working-farm campsite in the valley — a popular no-frills base for walkers and families in Borrowdale. Book and check current details on their site.
chapelhousefarmcampsite.co.ukA friendly, cash-only tea-room at Grange (Grange View, CA12 5XA), well placed for the Jaws of Borrowdale and riverside walks. Usually open from mid-morning.
Grange Café on FacebookA restored 1628 inn at Seatoller, at the foot of Honister — hearty homecooked food (a well-reviewed Sunday roast), roaring fires and a riverside beer garden. Dog-friendly.
theyewtree1628.comA traditional walkers' inn tucked away at Stonethwaite, just off the main valley road — food, drink and rooms in one of Borrowdale's quietest corners.
thelangstrath.co.ukAn Indian restaurant at the Lodore Falls Hotel, near the head of Derwentwater — a good dinner option if you're staying at the northern end of the valley.
Mizu at Lodore FallsFor a wider choice of hotels, B&Bs, cafés and restaurants, most visitors base themselves in Keswick, just north of the valley, and come into Borrowdale for the day.
Things to do in KeswickIf you're touring, the B5289 climbs from Seatoller over the Honister Pass to drop into the Buttermere valley — a spectacular onward drive or ride.
Things to do in ButtermereFree, no sign-up. The planner helps you build a Borrowdale day around the 78 bus, the weather and the walks you actually want to do.
Open the free Lakes PlannerCommon questions
Explore more
The market town at the head of Derwentwater — Borrowdale's nearest base.
ExploreThe little fell above Derwentwater at Borrowdale's northern gateway.
ExploreWainwright's favourite fell, over the tops beyond the Borrowdale head.
ExploreThe next valley west, reached over the Honister Pass from Seatoller.
Explore